10 Men #59 - Spring / Summer 2024
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10 Men #59 - Spring Summer 2024
As the SS24 men’s shows came to an end and we began discussing the themes of this issue, what stood out in our minds was the question of luxury. What does luxury mean today? In 2024, there are so many ways for men to communicate it through their personal wardrobes. Luxury comes in different guises, but the focus is always on the craft.
Of course, craft has long occupied the centre stage in men’s fashion, where precision, detail and fabrication have forever ruled supreme. What has morphed and changed is how men choose to exude their own personal ideas of luxury. The rulebook has been completely rewritten, as radical talent Junya Watanabe explains in a rare interview. “The universality and coolness inherent in menswear forms the base of my designs,” he explains, telling Deputy Editor Paul Toner how he’s shifting into a new gear by bringing the wild experimentalism of his womenswear into his men’s shows.
Luxury doesn’t only exist in a traditional, beautifully tailored suit; it can be found in the expert cut of a collar or the care put into creating a dynamic new silhouette for the modern man’s wardrobe. What does that look like? Toby Grimditch has given menswear classics a rave-ready twist. We also explore how a new generation of designers are rebuilding the codes that shape classic menswear, from Magliano’s queering of macho Italian tailoring to the elegant, gothic stylings of ‘opium dressing’.
In the issue, we have explored all the possibilities of how men now want to express luxury through their personal wardrobes. It can be classic, it can be subversive, it can be seductive – three qualities seen in Sabato De Sarno’s debut men’s collection for Gucci. Meanwhile, Joe Bobowicz pens an essay on how luxury’s biggest players ping between stealth wealth and overt maximalism. Whether you like it quiet or loud, nothing is predictable.
There is a sense of freedom and personality in how luxury is expressed, as Stephen Jones shows us. The millinery maestro mixes his own archive with this season’s best pieces. This issue celebrates individuality, and nobody embodies that more than Willy Chavarria, the New York design hero who is spotlighting his community and bringing a new energy to menswear. For this issue he takes on a series of characters that express different aspects of his universe. More than ever, menswear is setting the agenda, as Jack Moss explores in his essay on the ever-growing spectacle of men’s fashion week. Which brings us to Pharrell Williams, whose pre-fall 2024 Louis Vuitton men’s collection, shown on the waterfront in Hong Kong harbour, set a new bar for showmanship. Drones, choregraphed sailing boats, an exclusive Swae Lee soundtrack and a globe-trotting wardrobe; immerse yourself in Pharrell’s LV world.
This issue celebrates the differences and endless possibilities of modern luxury. I hope you find your version of it on these pages.
About 10 Magazine:
10 and 10 Men are now published twice yearly, focusing on the ever-changing world of fashion, contemporary art and beauty. Based in London, but encompassing a collection of the world’s best photographers, stylists and writers, it has become a definitive voice in luxury fashion.